Valladolid was not originally on my itinerary. It wasn’t even really on my radar. I was just looking for my next stop after five incredible days in Madrid. Typical of me to blow up my schedule when I am traveling.

The first stop is always guaranteed, but the next one? That’s up in the air.

This however, isn’t about my crazy travel habits. We’re here to talk about Valladolid

Lonely Planet Descriptions

I’ve come to learn that Lonely Planet has two speeds. Gushing, passionate reviews of places that leave you wondering why you aren’t booking that ticket right now. These seemed reserved for the usual suspects; London, Berlin, Prague or the like.

The second speed is charming understatement. Comments that are complementary but in the way your aunt would compliment your strange outfit. Not quite a ringing endorsement, but somewhere above lukewarm. “That color looks nice on you” sort of thing.

So when I run across one of these statements, I am almost always intrigued and feel a deep need to figure out what’s going on.

Getting out of Dodge – or at Least Madrid

Madrid was amazing (hey, Lonely Planet calls it a “Golden Metropolis!”) but as New Year’s eve drew close, the place was absolutely pulsating with people. This is where the country, it seems, goes to celebrate in a big way.

I was feeling in need of something more… human sized (as my friend in Lyon would refer to that city). I also wanted it to be fairly close. Spain is a big country, and spending a day on a train wasn’t in the cards. That ruled out a large portion of the country.

Salamanca was nearly sold out of rooms, Avila was headed in that direction, as was Seville. The prices for hotels were going up as the number of rooms dwindled. It was time to do some research, and so, Lonely Planet.

Next Stop Is…

Madrid is a Golden Metropolis. Valladolid is a “lively provincial city.” See what I mean? That color looks nice on you, Valladolid. The next line really grabbed me though. It said that it had a “very Spanish Character.”

Honestly, my first thought was, ‘well, yes, because it is in Spain. Of course it would have a ‘Spanish character.’ And yet the notion of a very Spanish city intrigued me. There I was in Spain, Spanish character was called for.

Rooms were, if not plentiful, at least far more affordable. I was sold. Valladolid it was.

Heading North

I took a Alta Velocidad Española (AVE) – or high-speed train – which was a bargain at around $20. Valladolid was already winning me over!

The route is not quite two hours by train from Madrid out of Madrid’s Chamartin station.  A comfortable ride past small towns, farms, orchards and a lot of wide open spaces. I love trains for this fact, I get to see the countryside and wonder about the places and the people.

The main station  in Valladolid is the Campo Grande, and it is a gem. It is small but well-organized and there was a bit of a hum about the place when I arrived. From the outside it has a wonderfully imposing stone front with three large arches.

A Very Spanish City

Valladolid is a jewel – the old city on one side of the river, the newer city on the other coexisting nicely – winding roads, side streets, courtyards and buildings that sit right out over the sidewalk to offer shade in what must be hot summers and cover in the rainy season.

As I walked the streets, I felt like I had gone back in time somehow. Women dressed elegantly, men in suits strolled with walking sticks. There are art deco and rococo buildings, narrow streets, and broad plazas. Spain won me over with the plazas.

The Plaza Espana was abuzz with a farmer’s market that seems to be a fixture of that square. Gorgeous produce was haggled over by shoppers who looked for the just the right whatever, smelled bunches of herbs, and packed ever more items into burgeoning tote-bags. This was the front yard of my hotel.

The Plaza Mayor is grand with the red buildings and white columns, the red brick center, the iron balconies and the green shutters. It looks… very Spanish. In this holiday season there was a small fair in the center with rides for children, a stand selling very welcome hot chocolate (it was cold!) and a lovely Christmas tree. Families lingered, students gathered around tables at the outdoor seating areas for the many restaurants, shoppers hurried past. Everything about this town was alive.

Valladolid – Old and New

Valladolid is a mix of old and even ancient churches, presided over by a grand Cathedral. Some of these places even smell old – as in you get the sense the air in them has not changed since, well, they were built. It is that particular smell of old stone, earth and perhaps a little lingering of incense. I love it.

It is also a city of small bars and lovely shops along narrow streets. There are buildings with grand doors that seem to beckon and small plazas that invite you to sit. Nothing feels hurried here, even the boisterous students seem content to stay put for a good debate and a decent beer.

The old town is surrounded by a more modern city. One with new apartment blocks, government and other office buildings.

A Celebratory Night, A Solitary Day

I arrived on New Year’s Eve, and I don’t know what I expected to happen. I suppose I planned a quiet evening to myself, if anything. Instead I found myself pulled along to the Plaza Mayor after a late dinner. The air fairly danced with the notion of the New Year. Valladolid knows how to throw a party.

It was cold; really, really cold; but no one seemed to mind. I managed to hang out until the fireworks were done, and I’m glad I did. Sure, it was after midnight, but the feeling of joy was just everywhere around me. Oddly, that crowd felt very safe, and even the walk back to the hotel was spent among a sea of people.

The boisterous night turned to a quiet morning. I headed out after breakfast, curious as to what New Year’s day was like in this city.  I had the place to myself. It was a foggy morning, and the cold mist hung over the place, a silencing blanket over the still sleeping city.

It was lovely. I found myself in a quiet square, happy for the solitary moment. I was glad I had come to this very Spanish city.